Things to Do in San Thome Cathedral

Underground tomb chapel

A narrow marble stairwell drops to the crypt where St Thomas the Apostle's relics rest under a low, candle-starred vault. The air smells of wax and damp stone. You'll hear the soft scrape of knees on the floor as visitors shuffle along the glass-panelled tomb. A silver hand on the side rail shines bright from centuries of hopeful touches.

Museum of Christian artifacts

Up the spiral staircase behind the altar, glass cases hold 16th-century Portuguese rosaries, a splinter said to be from Thomas's cross, and palm-leaf manuscripts that smell faintly of turmeric and aging palm fiber. Ask the caretaker. He will flip pages for you. Brittle sheets crackle like dry twigs.

Evening Mass on the steps

At 6 pm the parish spills outside. Worshippers sit on laterite steps still warm from the day's sun while the priest's voice drifts through crackling speakers. You'll smell camphor from nearby incense sticks sold by old women in white saris. Waves from the distant marina blend with Tamil hymns.

Tower climb for coastal panorama

A 180-step spiral of pale green wrought-iron leads to the spire lookout platform. From here you look over tiled Mylapore rooftops, the brown ribbon of the Cooum river, and fishing catamarans drawn up like wooden sardines on Marina beach. Sea wind whips your shirt and carries diesel fumes up from Santhome High Road.

Friday street procession

Every first Friday the statue of St Thomas, draped in gold cloth and jasmine garlands, is shouldered through the lanes. Drums thump, brass horns glint, and children dart under the palanquin to catch falling petals. The scent of melted ghee from nearby sweet stalls mixes with church incense, giving the night air a toasted, floral edge.

Mylapore rooftop homestays. Old Brahmin houses with banana-leaf breakfasts on the terrace.

Marina seafront mid-range hotels where you'll fall asleep to crashing waves

Alwarpet boutiques tucked in quiet lanes full of banyan-shaded cafes

T. Nagar budget lodges above silk shops, hectic but a short auto to church

Egmore heritage guesthouses in 1940s bungalows with Madras-tile roofs

ECR beach villas if you fancy a morning swim before cathedral visits